FIELD NOTES

Remember to factor in time for going up and down the hills. Plenty of hills and cobble paths so comfortable footwear would be wise. Birkenstocks worked out well for the 5 days.

PLACES

Tucked away under the Teatro da Caragem is a café by day, bar by night but both with amazing views of the city. They also do a simple but excellent breakfast menu.

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One of the most memorable local restaurants that I have dined in so far, and probably the only one so far that I've ever felt was worth an hour's wait. Between the delicious homecooked food and personal service, it felt just like you were dining at your Portugese grandma's house.

Start queuing before 7pm if you don't want to be standing outside for an hour waiting on a table.

A cultural center that doubles up as a library and co-working space, it is a hidden peaceful gem amongst the bustle in the area. There is a bookstore that is every designer's dream, café as well as rooms with beautiful ceilings and interiors to study in.

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Amongst the tall trees and historical castles, the city truly felt like something out of a fairytale. Just a 3 euro and 45 minutes ride away, the Pena Palace, Moorish Castle and Quinta da Regaleira were all equally as stunning and worth the trip (even with the hills).

Originally opened in 1930, this cannery sells plenty of quality conserved fish that make great souvenirs. Canned mackarel, sardines, squid and cod are available in a variety of flavours ranging from 3 to 8 euros each.

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